Fence & Gate Repair in Marysville, WA
Cedar fencing is everywhere around Marysville, and our wet climate is hard on it. Constant moisture rots posts at the ground line, warps and cups boards, and grows a coat of moss and green algae on the shady, north-facing sides. Gates start to sag and drag until they won't latch. We repair what's worth saving — resetting leaning posts, replacing rotted boards and rails, and rebuilding gates so they swing true and latch clean.
We reinforce sagging gates with proper bracing and solid hardware, replace rusted hinges and latches, and re-secure sections loosened by our winter wind. Where boards are just green with moss and algae rather than truly rotted, we can clean and treat them so the fence lasts longer before it needs replacing.
What this covers
- Sagging gate repair and rebuilding
- Rotted cedar board and rail replacement
- Leaning and rotted post resetting
- Hinge, latch and hardware replacement
- Gate anti-sag bracing
- Moss and algae cleaning and treatment
- Wind-loosened section re-securing
- Post-cap and picket repair
How a fence & gate repair visit usually goes
Walk the whole line
We inspect every post at grade, every rail connection and the gate geometry first, so you get an honest map of what is failing versus what has years left.
Reset the structure
Rotted or leaning posts come out and new ones go in — set to drain, not to hold water — because a fence is only as good as what is in the ground.
Rebuild boards and gates
Soft rails and boards get replaced with cedar to match, gates get squared with proper diagonal bracing, and hardware goes on rust-resistant so it survives our winters.
Protect what remains
We clean moss and algae off the sound sections and can apply a treatment, so the parts you did not pay to replace last as long as possible.
When a real windstorm rolls up the Sound in November, fences on Marysville's open north-end plateaus catch it broadside, and a line with even one soft post can lose three panels in a night. If your fence leaned in the last blow, that is the warning shot — we can reset the weak posts and re-secure the panels before the next front, which is far cheaper than rebuilding a downed section plus whatever it landed on.
What shapes the price in Marysville
Fence repair pricing around Marysville is driven by how many posts are gone, how they were originally set, and how much cedar needs replacing versus cleaning. Posts snapped at grade cost more to fix than loose ones because the old footing has to come out of the ground. Gate rebuilds vary with size and hardware quality, and tight side-yard access or a long carry from the truck adds honest labor. Disposal of old rotten material is part of the quote, and repairing several bays in one visit prices better than piecemeal calls.
Neighbors often ask
My gate drags and won't latch — can it be saved?
Usually, yes. A dragging gate is almost always a sagging corner or a worn hinge. We square it back up with proper bracing and solid hardware so it swings level and latches on the first try.
How do I know if a fence post is rotted?
Give it a firm push — if it moves at the base or the wood is soft and dark at ground line, the post is going. In our climate that's common. We can reset or replace the bad posts without redoing the whole fence.
Should I switch to steel posts when you replace the rotted wood ones?
In this climate it is often the smart upgrade. Ground-contact wood is exactly where our fences fail, and powder-coated steel posts paired with cedar rails and boards keep the wood look while removing the part that rots. They cost more per post but usually outlast a second round of wood replacements.
When is the right time to stain or seal a cedar fence here?
In our window of genuinely dry weather — usually mid-July through September — after the wood has dried below the surface, not just on it. Sealing damp cedar traps moisture and peels by spring. We can clean and prep the fence earlier, then come back to seal once a dry stretch has done its work.
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