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Door Repair & Adjustment in Marysville, WA

Doors are one of the first things to act up in a wet climate. Our damp winters swell wooden doors so they stick and drag, then they shrink back come summer and leave a draft. Add decades of settling in older Marysville homes and it's no surprise so many doors bind, rub the frame, or won't latch cleanly anymore. We diagnose the real cause and fix it, rather than just planing off wood you'll want back in July.

We rehang sagging doors, adjust hinges and strike plates, plane and seal swollen edges, and replace worn weatherstripping so exterior doors keep the wet and the cold out. We install new knobs, deadbolts and smart locks, and we sort out sliding patio and closet doors that have jumped their tracks.

What this covers

Fixing sticking and dragging doors
Hinge, screw and strike-plate adjustment
Planing and sealing swollen doors
Weatherstripping and draft sealing
Knob, deadbolt and smart-lock installation
Sliding and closet door track repair
New interior and exterior door hanging
Threshold and sweep replacement

A note from around here: Marysville's wet-dry seasonal swing makes wood doors swell in winter and shrink in summer — we fix the binding and reseal the weatherstripping so exterior doors keep the damp out without sticking when the frame moves.

How a door repair & adjustment visit usually goes

Find the real bind

We check hinges, frame square, threshold and swelling before touching a plane, because shaving a door that only needs a longer hinge screw ruins it for summer.

Correct the hardware first

Loose hinges get longer screws into framing, strike plates get moved or filed, and sagging corners get pulled back square — most sticking doors are fixed right here.

Trim and seal only if needed

When wood truly must come off, we take the minimum, then seal the raw edge immediately, since bare wood in our climate drinks moisture and swells right back.

Weatherseal and prove it

Exterior doors get fresh weatherstripping, sweep and threshold adjustment, and we close the door on a strip of paper around the perimeter to prove the seal is even.

Front doors around here that face south or west take our storm weather head-on, and we see the same pattern over and over: peeling finish, a spongy spot at the bottom of the jamb, and daylight at the corner of the threshold. Caught early that is a repair, not a replacement — we cut out the soft wood, splice in new material, and get a proper finish back on before the next atmospheric river arrives.

What shapes the price in Marysville

Door work in Marysville is priced by what the door actually needs. A hinge-and-strike adjustment is the quick end of the scale; planing and resealing a swollen slab, replacing a rotted threshold, or rebuilding a chewed-up jamb takes more time and material. Exterior doors run higher than interior ones because weathersealing and security hardware are part of doing them right. Hardware quality matters too — a builder-grade knob and a smart deadbolt are different line items. Several doors in one visit always beats booking them one at a time.

Neighbors often ask

My door sticks every winter but is fine in summer — why?

That's moisture. Wood absorbs the damp in our long wet season and swells enough to bind. We address it in a way that accounts for the seasonal movement, rather than shaving off too much wood you'll miss when it dries out.

Can you fix a drafty exterior door?

Yes. Usually it's worn weatherstripping, a gap at the threshold, or a door that's settled out of square. We reseal and adjust it so it latches snug and keeps the wind and rain outside where they belong.

My sliding patio door takes two hands to open — can you fix it?

Almost always. The rollers underneath wear flat and the track fills with grit, especially on doors that open toward a yard full of fir debris. We pull the panel, replace the rollers, clean and dress the track, and adjust the latch — most sliders glide with one finger again by the time we leave.

Is the bottom of my door frame rotting, and does the whole thing need replacing?

Poke it — if a screwdriver sinks in easily at the bottom foot of the jamb or brickmould, rot has started. In most cases we can cut the soft section out, splice in primed material or PVC that will not rot again, and blend the paint, saving you the cost of a full frame replacement.

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